Recommendation for climbing routes

Alpine climbers consider the possibilities in the Wilder Kaiser to be legendary. For ambitious amateurs, there are routes ranging in difficulty from V to VII (UIAA), which are often well secured for sport climbing. In fact, they are almost always moderate.

Start: Gaudeamushütte. Recommended route via the ‘Wirtskante’ (approx. 6+): A popular and rewarding route – ‘ABS’ (7-) – challenging but very beautiful classic. The Gaudeamushütte is a central base for many climbing routes in this area. After the tour? Be sure to stop in for a bite to eat.

Recommended routes:
‘Opa Highway’ (6+): A longer but very enjoyable tour. 400 m long, 3-4 hours.
‘Lebensreise’ (6+): Another popular, slightly longer route (450 m, 4-6 hours).
‘Via Romantica’ (6): A long, classic route with a length of 520 m, taking 4-6 hours.

Special features: The Kopfkraxen often offers very beautiful alpine sport climbing on very good rock, partly with friction slabs and water grooves. The routes are mostly completely equipped with bolts, which is advantageous for ambitious amateurs.

A small but excellent selection of alpine climbing routes. Special features: Offers a 400-metre-long sunny rock face. Ideal for late summer and autumn, as it can get very hot in midsummer.

A classic in the Wilder Kaiser, also feasible for ambitious amateurs with alpine experience. More of a ridge climb with some climbing sections than a sport climbing route. The approach is long and the descent challenging (partial abseiling required). The alpine character of the Kopftörlgrat is a must for climbing enthusiasts. Requires good planning.

Difficulty levels: From 6+ upwards, with many routes at levels 7 and 8.
Around 190 routes ranging from 8 to 40 metres in length. Considered an insider tip, its exposed location often means it is climbable early in the year when the sun is shining. Ideally suited to ambitious amateurs who are already confident at level 6.

Around 32 routes, 14 of which are multi-pitch routes. From easy to challenging. Wow, a 230 m high wall at the foot of the Treffauer awaits. Good for amateurs who want to practise multi-pitch climbing. The approach from the Jägerwirt in Scheffau takes around 1 to 1.5 hours.

Routes from 2 to 10. Most of them are grade 6 to 7. 34 routes ranging from 12 to 25 metres in length. Good rock quality. Access via the Wochenbrunner Alm in Ellmau or the Tannbichl car park in Going.

A real mecca for extreme climbers. Known for extremely difficult routes – up to grades 10 and 11. Some routes in the middle to upper amateur range (e.g. grade 7) can also be found here. For ambitious amateurs with a solid grade 7, the ‘Number One Direkt’ (7b+) route is interesting. Climbable all year round. Located at the foot of the Maukspitze in Going.

Moderately difficult to difficult, in any case very long and physically demanding. One of the most famous via ferrata routes in the Wilder Kaiser. Around 2,000 m climbing length and 1,100 m elevation gain on the via ferrata circuit. Total time (approach, climb and descent) up to 11 hours. Requires excellent fitness and stamina. The approach via the Gamsängersteig already has alpine characteristics. Accessible from the Wochenbrunner Alm via the Gruttenhütte.

Difficult to very difficult. It is possible to only do the first, easier section. A short but technically demanding via ferrata along the gorge wall between the Gaudeamus Hut and the Grutten Hut. Offers variety with a wire rope bridge and rock climbing. Good for technical training. The approach from the Wochenbrunner Alm via the Gaudeamus Hut takes around 1 hour 20 minutes.

Moderately difficult to difficult. The normal route to the highest peak of the Wilder Kaiser, the Ellmauer Halt (2,344 m). The climb is interesting and entertaining, leading over wire ropes, steps and ladders. There are also unsecured climbing sections (UIAA I) to overcome. Sure-footedness, a head for heights and alpine experience are required.

From the Wochenbrunner Alm via the Gruttenhütte. The ‘Felsige Erlebnissteig’ is one of the easier via ferrata routes. Ambitious hikers with via ferrata experience will love this route. Impressive rock formations delight the eye. Also possible as a guided tour with a mountain guide.